Click pictures to see large
Cruise #4 - To Princess Louisa Inlet
"There is no use describing the Inlet. Perhaps an atheist could view it and remain an atheiest, but I doubt it. There is a calm tranquiity that stretches from the smooth surface of the reflecting water straight up into infinity. The muffled roar of throbbing waterfalls as they plunge down sheer cliffs ...One views the scenery with bared head and choking feeling of the throat. It is more than beautiful. It is sacred."
Earle Stanley Gardner, mystery novel author.
Earle Stanley Gardner, mystery novel author.
I have personally witnessed the affect of the inlet on the skeptical. Some years ago while standing off waiting for the slack at the Malibu Rapids I could not help but overhear the bickering of a young American couple on a 35 footer nearby.The young lady was berating her mate about what a waste of their holiday the long trip up the reaches had been only to sit and wait for a tidal change. He had no answers as he admitted he had only come because "he had read about it".
A few minutes later we proceeded nearly side by side through the pass and into the first part of the inlet. There had been silence on the other boat and then I heard the girl let out one breathless comment - "My God". And they carried on quietly.
I have sailed all over the world and know of no other place quite so lovely for a boater. There is little to do but look however that is worth the trip. Plan on at least a day at
A few minutes later we proceeded nearly side by side through the pass and into the first part of the inlet. There had been silence on the other boat and then I heard the girl let out one breathless comment - "My God". And they carried on quietly.
I have sailed all over the world and know of no other place quite so lovely for a boater. There is little to do but look however that is worth the trip. Plan on at least a day at
A view from the air of the inner inlet
anchor in the inlet. You will probably have to overnight anyway due to the tide at the rapids and the length of the journey. Be sure and have enough fuel and provisions as there are no services after you start up the Reaches.
Preplanning:
At the entrance to the inlet are Malibu Rapids which have currents up to 9 knots so you must plan to go through at slack. This is especially important here due to the narrowness of the pass which can lead to some traffic congestion as boats all want to come or go at the same time. This means considering the time to get up the Reaches from the Hotham Sound and Egmont area to arrive in a timely manner, reducing the waiting around. There are not many very good anchorages on the way up so the preferred plan is to "go for it" all the way at once. Plan on motoring although if you are very lucky you might get some pleasant runs and reaches in. If you motor about 5 knots then plan on about 6 hours to get to the rapids from the bottm of the Reaches at Dark Cove about 30 miles.
In the summer what winds there are in the sheltered Reaches are up the inlet during the day and oddly are strongest in good weather. At night there is usually nothing. As you move from one Reach to the next any wind will lessen until usually Queens Reach is glassy calm. Once, years ago, in my Catalina 22, I set out from the bottom under spinniker and some freak conditions prevailed that day. As I turn each corner the wind continued driving me at about 4 knots. I arrived at the rapids spot on the slack, sailed through and still sailed right (albeit slowly) to the base of Chatterbox Falls where I dropped the anchor and then the sail. The park ranger rowed over to me and said that in his 16 years in the inlet he had never seen anyone do what I did. I felt very special.
Depending on the timing you may be starting from Egmont, after topping up your fuel or one of the other anchorages around Hotham Sound. For an overnight spot just at the start of the trip consider Dark Cove, next to Goliath Bay at the bottom of Prince of Wales Reach. It is dark due to the steep surrounding mountains but protected especially off the beach behind the small islat next to Sydney Island. Watch for the rocks and the shoal just north. Goliath Bay is not suitable due to the logging activity although in a pinch you could use it.
Preplanning:
At the entrance to the inlet are Malibu Rapids which have currents up to 9 knots so you must plan to go through at slack. This is especially important here due to the narrowness of the pass which can lead to some traffic congestion as boats all want to come or go at the same time. This means considering the time to get up the Reaches from the Hotham Sound and Egmont area to arrive in a timely manner, reducing the waiting around. There are not many very good anchorages on the way up so the preferred plan is to "go for it" all the way at once. Plan on motoring although if you are very lucky you might get some pleasant runs and reaches in. If you motor about 5 knots then plan on about 6 hours to get to the rapids from the bottm of the Reaches at Dark Cove about 30 miles.
In the summer what winds there are in the sheltered Reaches are up the inlet during the day and oddly are strongest in good weather. At night there is usually nothing. As you move from one Reach to the next any wind will lessen until usually Queens Reach is glassy calm. Once, years ago, in my Catalina 22, I set out from the bottom under spinniker and some freak conditions prevailed that day. As I turn each corner the wind continued driving me at about 4 knots. I arrived at the rapids spot on the slack, sailed through and still sailed right (albeit slowly) to the base of Chatterbox Falls where I dropped the anchor and then the sail. The park ranger rowed over to me and said that in his 16 years in the inlet he had never seen anyone do what I did. I felt very special.
Depending on the timing you may be starting from Egmont, after topping up your fuel or one of the other anchorages around Hotham Sound. For an overnight spot just at the start of the trip consider Dark Cove, next to Goliath Bay at the bottom of Prince of Wales Reach. It is dark due to the steep surrounding mountains but protected especially off the beach behind the small islat next to Sydney Island. Watch for the rocks and the shoal just north. Goliath Bay is not suitable due to the logging activity although in a pinch you could use it.
Getting There:
Prince of Wales Reach is straight forward with the pyramid shape of Mount Churchill ahead until the lower heights block its view. At the bend to the west on the east side is Vancouver Bay which can be an anchorge but if the wind is up you may get pushed around some. It goes from deep to shoal sand right away from the wash of the Vancouver River. Watch for bears on the flats and the mosquitos can be a irritant. I watched a wild forest fire crawl up the slopes of the nearby heights from here once - a spectacular sight. The next potential stop is at McMurray Bay. It is subject to up inlet winds but in summer and at night these are rarely an issue. The two small bights to the north can also provide anchorage although the first is pretty rocky, the second has better ground and more shelter. I do not recommend stopping in the flats where the Brittain River empties. The situation can be trecherous sweeping into the doles. The chalky water is from rock dust carried down from nearby glaciers. The white streakes of the cliffs across the way are quartz.
Princess Royal Reach is dotted with old logging camps some of which might provide an emergency place to tie up but the next anchorage is Deserted Bay. It is not very good in the afternoon as winds up the inlet can pile up the waves after the 14 mile fetch. The most protection is in the southeast corner.
Queens Reach is usually calm but there are numerous small spots you can anchor ovenight or while waitng for a tide change in the rapids. In particular: just around Patrick Point; directly across from it in the nook; by Crabapple creek, further up past Malibu Rapids near Smanit Creek; and at the head of the reach.
Prince of Wales Reach is straight forward with the pyramid shape of Mount Churchill ahead until the lower heights block its view. At the bend to the west on the east side is Vancouver Bay which can be an anchorge but if the wind is up you may get pushed around some. It goes from deep to shoal sand right away from the wash of the Vancouver River. Watch for bears on the flats and the mosquitos can be a irritant. I watched a wild forest fire crawl up the slopes of the nearby heights from here once - a spectacular sight. The next potential stop is at McMurray Bay. It is subject to up inlet winds but in summer and at night these are rarely an issue. The two small bights to the north can also provide anchorage although the first is pretty rocky, the second has better ground and more shelter. I do not recommend stopping in the flats where the Brittain River empties. The situation can be trecherous sweeping into the doles. The chalky water is from rock dust carried down from nearby glaciers. The white streakes of the cliffs across the way are quartz.
Princess Royal Reach is dotted with old logging camps some of which might provide an emergency place to tie up but the next anchorage is Deserted Bay. It is not very good in the afternoon as winds up the inlet can pile up the waves after the 14 mile fetch. The most protection is in the southeast corner.
Queens Reach is usually calm but there are numerous small spots you can anchor ovenight or while waitng for a tide change in the rapids. In particular: just around Patrick Point; directly across from it in the nook; by Crabapple creek, further up past Malibu Rapids near Smanit Creek; and at the head of the reach.
Through the Rapids:
Surprise, all of a sudden there is what appears to be a large full scale resort in the middle of the rapids. It was a private entertainment lodge built by American inventor Hamilton Beech (propellors, the blender) during the Second World War.Now it is a Christian youth camp for under previledged boys and girls with a swimming pool and large motor barges for excursions. None of these activities will intrude on yours. Through the rapids a dock is maintained that you might tie up at for about 30 minutes while someone from the lodge gives you a quick tour. Otherwise the dock is off limits to visitors.
Go the through the rapids at very close to slack - very close. Current can be up to 9 knots but if there is any current then sometimes avoiding the host of other boats all trying to go one way or the other at the same time can be a problem. Subject to traffic try to stay near the middle of the channel but there is some manuveuring room for other boats. You never know at Louisa, sometimes it is full and sometimes nearly empty even
Surprise, all of a sudden there is what appears to be a large full scale resort in the middle of the rapids. It was a private entertainment lodge built by American inventor Hamilton Beech (propellors, the blender) during the Second World War.Now it is a Christian youth camp for under previledged boys and girls with a swimming pool and large motor barges for excursions. None of these activities will intrude on yours. Through the rapids a dock is maintained that you might tie up at for about 30 minutes while someone from the lodge gives you a quick tour. Otherwise the dock is off limits to visitors.
Go the through the rapids at very close to slack - very close. Current can be up to 9 knots but if there is any current then sometimes avoiding the host of other boats all trying to go one way or the other at the same time can be a problem. Subject to traffic try to stay near the middle of the channel but there is some manuveuring room for other boats. You never know at Louisa, sometimes it is full and sometimes nearly empty even
Overview of Malibu Rapids looking into Princess Louisa Inlet
during the high cruising season. I don't know what governs the population.
Once through slow down and enjoy the experience as you wend your way to the top of the inlet.
Once through slow down and enjoy the experience as you wend your way to the top of the inlet.
In the Inlet:
The usual routine is to proceed right to the top of the inlet - about 2 miles - there to see Chatterbox Falls and to look over the other cruisers. At the top you have several options. If you prefer to dock, there is a free long dock available although you often will not find room and rafting up can be difficult. If no one else has taken the spot, you can anchor with your bow pointing right into the falls. The current will keep the bow pointed and the air is cooled as it blows over you from the falls. Anchoring is possible all along the shore to the left of the falls usually in 40 to 70 foot water.
Once settled you use your dingy to explore and to go ashore. Ashore, leading from the docks is a trail leading through pleasant woods to some camp sites, a picnic pavillion and barbeque pits. Further on the trail takes you to the side of the
The usual routine is to proceed right to the top of the inlet - about 2 miles - there to see Chatterbox Falls and to look over the other cruisers. At the top you have several options. If you prefer to dock, there is a free long dock available although you often will not find room and rafting up can be difficult. If no one else has taken the spot, you can anchor with your bow pointing right into the falls. The current will keep the bow pointed and the air is cooled as it blows over you from the falls. Anchoring is possible all along the shore to the left of the falls usually in 40 to 70 foot water.
Once settled you use your dingy to explore and to go ashore. Ashore, leading from the docks is a trail leading through pleasant woods to some camp sites, a picnic pavillion and barbeque pits. Further on the trail takes you to the side of the
My Catalina 22 "Supice" at Chatterbox a long time ago
falls for close in viewing.
BE CAREFUL! Someone seems to be killed here most every year while trying to get out for the perfect camera angle or just being foolish. The rocks ar slippery and it is too easy to lose your balnace and grip.There is garbage disposal on shore. There is a fresh water, potable tap for water on the dock and a couple of taps scattered through the park area.
From the park area lead trails going high into the surrounding mountains and high above the falls. These are glorious to hike but they are not for the faint hearted due to the steep nature of the terain. There are alpine meadows, iceberg lakes and snowfields with an awesome view over the landscape.
For a more secluded anchorage away from the boats and the falls, go back down the inlet to Macdonald Island. There in the small nooks in the shore on the north side is peace, possible deer sightings and in high summer the water is warmer here for swimming.
Enjoy. You will always remember and cherish your trip to Princess Lousia Inlet.
Go to Top
As a side bar, I once elected to go to Lousia in February having heard that there more than the usual 75 waterfalls in the winter. The whole story would take far too long. It started off from Vancouver with bright sunshine, warm winds and the spinniker flying. Let it be said that I picked the worst possible week for years on the coast with record low temperatures and winds so high that BC Ferries stopped sailing. In Louisa, due to the fresh water, a crust of ice filled the inlet and snow over 8 inches deep was on everything. The falls were gorged with water so that the bottom of them was far out into the inlet instead of on the rocks below. The trip back was a horror story as sea ice built up on my Cal 29 over 2 inches thick up to the spreaders. Had I turned around I think she would have capsized from the weight. We did over 7 knots under bare poles down Geogia straight. An adventure not to be repeated. Crowds gathered at the Yacht club when we got back to see the "Ice Boat."
BE CAREFUL! Someone seems to be killed here most every year while trying to get out for the perfect camera angle or just being foolish. The rocks ar slippery and it is too easy to lose your balnace and grip.There is garbage disposal on shore. There is a fresh water, potable tap for water on the dock and a couple of taps scattered through the park area.
From the park area lead trails going high into the surrounding mountains and high above the falls. These are glorious to hike but they are not for the faint hearted due to the steep nature of the terain. There are alpine meadows, iceberg lakes and snowfields with an awesome view over the landscape.
For a more secluded anchorage away from the boats and the falls, go back down the inlet to Macdonald Island. There in the small nooks in the shore on the north side is peace, possible deer sightings and in high summer the water is warmer here for swimming.
Enjoy. You will always remember and cherish your trip to Princess Lousia Inlet.
Go to Top
As a side bar, I once elected to go to Lousia in February having heard that there more than the usual 75 waterfalls in the winter. The whole story would take far too long. It started off from Vancouver with bright sunshine, warm winds and the spinniker flying. Let it be said that I picked the worst possible week for years on the coast with record low temperatures and winds so high that BC Ferries stopped sailing. In Louisa, due to the fresh water, a crust of ice filled the inlet and snow over 8 inches deep was on everything. The falls were gorged with water so that the bottom of them was far out into the inlet instead of on the rocks below. The trip back was a horror story as sea ice built up on my Cal 29 over 2 inches thick up to the spreaders. Had I turned around I think she would have capsized from the weight. We did over 7 knots under bare poles down Geogia straight. An adventure not to be repeated. Crowds gathered at the Yacht club when we got back to see the "Ice Boat."
The Ice Boat>>>
